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  Back from France
General Posted by dole on 08/21/2001 at 20:22 PST in General
Last Reader Comment on 02/28/2002 at 11:34 PST

Ok, I've been back from France for a while now. I guess I should post my tasting notes.

The problem is visiting Bordeaux is nothing like visiting Sonoma or Napa. I've visited probably a 70 different wineries in California. The routine is predictable, you get to taste wine and if you like, buy it. Bordeaux, on the other hand, you don't get a drop. You can't even buy wine at the wineries, that's what wine shops are for.

Now I knew going in that most wineries demand a reservation to take the tour. I just didn't count on them not answering their phone, or getting their voice mail system (in French of course).

The local guide books list many wineries which are "no appointment necessary." As best I could tell after visiting a few, this means that during open hours (all wineries are closed noon until 2pm) that there is someone on staff to tell you that without an appointment you will see nothing, taste nothing, and leave soon. If the guide book lists the winery as speaking English, you have the added bonus have having this told to you in your native tongue.

So after a wasted day driving up and down Bordeaux, we found a little shop tasting wine. At this winery we tasted a $7 Medoc, that for a $7 wine was quite good. However we were drinking similar red "table wines" throughout France. This was not the year 2000 first growth barrel sample I was looking for. At least we didn't go away empty handed.

The lessons learned are this:

  1. Don't go to Bordeaux, I've heard just about every other wine region in France is much more accommodating.
  2. If you must go do 2 or more of the following: speak fluent French, call or fax a month in advance of your arrival, or be Robert Parker.
I managed to have one really great St. Emillion with dinner one night, a 1995 Chateau Rochebelle. I even managed to pick up a few bottles for arround $25 each in a shop in St. Emillion.

If you want to see some pictures of my trip, look here. I should warn you there are all of the Tour de France, and not much about wine. Bryn

( 5 Reader Comments 5 New Comments )


 
  kbutler 08/28/2001 at 10:10 PST [Reply]

As I was with Bryn for the Bordeaux fiasco, I can only concur with his opinion on attempting a tasting in Bordeaux. For those of us that are used to tasting in Napa, Sonoma, or Washington, it is incredibly frustrating. On my next trip to France I would visit Burgundy or the Rhone. I also really liked Alsace. The area was beautiful and the wines much better than I expected. Bollenberg in particular provided great food and great wine. I will provide more information on Bollenberg with my tasting notes.

St Emillion, though, is a spectacular town. 12th-15th century buildings abound. No modern buildings can be seen.

I will post my tasting notes of the wines we actually were able to taste shortly. The Chateau Rochebelle was the highlight, though I did carry several other bottles home.


 
  opus445086 02/21/2002 at 13:02 PST [Reply]

Different sort of wine, but Tuscany is a nice place to visit some (not a lot) of vineyards and taste wine. And a lot of producers have shops, particularly in Montepulciano, to try their wines. In addition, several shops have great tasting. In Greve, there is a place where you can buy a prepaid phone card like device and sample any wine they have. Each sample deducts a cost from the card. It is great because there is no pressure to buy, which I often found when I sampled wines for free.

     


 
  dole 02/21/2002 at 13:51 PST [Reply]

That has to be the best use of smart card technology I've ever heard!

A wine debit card. ;)

Bryn


 
  gratton 02/27/2002 at 11:11 PST [Reply]

My wife and I have been to France twice and we had a great time.Great wine tastings and food. Reception was superb,recieved recommendations as to what winery to visit,phoned ahead advising of our pending arrival and even had the wine maker of Chateau Giscours make arrangment for a visit to Chateau Latour which is normally closed to tourist. Looking forward to our next visit. Sorry to hear about your misfortune,must have been a full moon.

     


 
  dole 02/28/2002 at 11:34 PST [Reply]

I'm guessing that you speek French! I don't know how else we would have managed to get past the wineries' voice mail.

If I had to do it over, I would have faxed reservation requests well in advance from the US.

My main point was that its not nearly as wine tasting friendly as Napa or Sonoma.

Bryn

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