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| 1997 | Abadia Retuerta "Cuvee el Campanario" | | | | 4 | 90 |
| 2001 | Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Furstentum VV | Gewurztraminer | | 23.00 | 2 | 94 |
| 2000 | Albert Mann Pinot Gris Furstentum | Gewurztraminer | | 26.99 | 2 | 92 |
| 1999 | Allegrini Amarone | Corvina | | 49.99 | 2 | 95 |
| The impressive 1999 Amarone della Valpolicella is from a vintage which was anything but easy, but apparently created few problems here. Rich, jammy, and spicy aromas are followed by full and voluminous flavors, broad and warmly alcoholic with abundant super-ripe fruit and notes of chocolate, solid but voluptuous and extremely long on the finish. |
| 1998 | Allende | Tempranillo | | | 3 | 87 |
| 2000 | Allende | | | | 3 | |
| 1998 | Alois Kracher Chardonnay/Welschriesling TBA #7 NV | | | 29.99 | 3 | 94 |
| The yellow/orange-colored 1998 Chardonnay / Welschriesling Trockenbeerenauslese Nouvelle Vague Number 7 exhibits aromas reminiscent of poached pears, flowers, and candied berries. It is medium to full-bodied, ample, velvety-textured, and crammed with fresh pears, apples, oranges, white flowers, and jammy apricots. It is rich, broad, lively, has exceptional acidity, and an impressively long finish |
| 1998 | Alois Kracher Scheurebe TBA #3 ZDS | | | 29.99 | 1 | 95 |
| The orange/yellow-colored 1998 Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese Zwischen den Seen Number 3 explodes from the glass with spices, lychee nuts, roses, and candied white raisins. It is gorgeously focused, fresh, medium-bodied, and is packed with smoky minerals as well as loads of jammy yellow fruits. This exceptionally long wine reveals a firm tannic backbone, a rarity for a white wine but typical of its varietal. It has an immensely impressive combination of power, concentration, balance, and elegance |
| 1998 | Alois Kracher Traminer TBA #8 NV | | | 29.99 | 3 | 93 |
| The 1998 Traminer Trockenbeerenauslese Nouvelle Vague Number 8 is a gold colored wine with an intensely spicy nose. This is a scrumptious wine, packed with white peaches, freshly cracked pepper, apricots, herbs, and botrytis flavors. It is seamless, harmonious, and has the distinctive tannic mark of its varietal in its botrytis-laced finish. |
| 1998 | Alois Kracher Welschriesling TBA #11 ZDS | | | 39.99 | 1 | 96 |
| The 1998 Welschriesling Trockenbeerenauslese Zwischen den Seen Number 11 has a yellow color with golden hues. It exhibits white peach, apricot, smoke, botrytis and freshly cracked white pepper aromas. Medium to full-bodied and elegant, this wine is stuffed with candied kumquats, jellied peaches, spices, and fresh apricots. It has an exceptional combination of refinement, power, and concentration. This decadently-textured wine is intense, pure, and immensely long |
| 1997 | Atalon Mountain Estates | Cabernet | | 80.00 | 3 | 91 |
| 1998 | Banneret | Rhone | | 26.00 | 3 | |
| 2001 | Bassermann-Jordan Estate | Riesling | | 13.95 | 2 | |
| 1997 | Baumard "Trie Special" Savennieres | Chenin Blanc | | | 1 | 94 |
| The 1997 Savennieres Trie Speciale displays thick aromas of candied lemons, honeysuckle blossoms, and bergamots (the citrus fruit that flavors Earl Grey tea). This is a luxurious Savennieres. It offers powerfully expressive flavors of toasted minerals, white fruits, and hints of papaya in its personality and amazingly long finish. This tour de force possesses huge breadth, concentration, and Baumard's trademark purity. It is magnificent to drink today and should easily last through 2015. |
| 1989 | Baumard Quarts de Chaume | Chenin Blanc | | 54.95 | 1 | |
| 1990 | Baumard Quarts de Chaume | Chenin Blanc | | 44.00 | 2 | 94 |
| 1997 | Baumard Quarts de Chaume | Chenin Blanc | | 44.00 | 1 | 94 |
| Baumard's 1997 Quarts de Chaume has been tasted five times over a six month period and it is a remarkably consistent wine. With extended aeration it appears to gain in focus and freshness, a trait that is surprising in the generally heavy and super-ripe 1997 vintage. Caramelized minerals and honeyed aromas are exuded by this dense, oily, jammy wine. On the palate, marzipan, candied grapefruit, and tropical fruits can de detected within its viscous, yet fresh, core. This massive offering will require some cellaring before reaching its peak. Drink it between 2003 and 2020.
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| 2002 | Beringer Spragia Limited Release | Chardonnay | | 29.99 | 3 | 95 |
| 1996 | Beychevelle | Bordeaux | | 51.00 | 1 | 85-86 |
| Beychevelle's 1996 reveals an evolved, dark plum color. The nose offers toasty new oak in an open, charming style with berry fruit intermixed with spice. It is an uninspiring example, particularly for such a top-notch terroir, but the wine is medium-bodied and cleanly made, with moderate longevity |
| 1988 | Bon Pasteur | Bordeaux | | 42.00 | 2 | 89 |
| Bon Pasteur's 1988 is a sure bet. Deep opaque dark ruby (darker than the 1989), with a huge bouquet of chocolate, plums, currants, and herbs, this full-bodied, admirably extracted wine should prove to have considerable longevity. Anticipated maturity: Now-2008. |
| 1989 | Bon Pasteur | Bordeaux | | | 2 | 90 |
| Although the 1989 Bon Pasteur did not jump off retailers' shelves, I have had it frequently, and the wine consistently scores in the 89-90 point category. The nose offers up an interesting concoction of seaweed, salty ocean breezes, smoke, and sweet chocolate-covered cherry candy. There remains a firm, tannic edge to this medium to full-bodied wine, but it is developing considerable complexity, as well as additional richness and weight. This delicious 1989 should continue to drink well for 10-12 year |
| 1999 | Bond "Matriarch" | Blend | | 150.00 | 3 | 91-93 |
| Those lots deemed not quite up to the standards of the Melbury, Vecina, and St. Eden labels are blended together to form Bond’s second wine, The Matriarch. This is a second wine in name only. The complex 1999 The Matriarch displays a deep plum/purple color along with sweet, succulent aromas of smoky oak, lead pencil shavings, and a sexy concoction of chocolate, black currants, and licorice. Drink this rich, medium to full-bodied beauty over the next 10-12 years.
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| 2000 | Bond "Matriarch" | Blend | | 65.00 | 3 | 90 |
| Those lots deemed not quite up to the standards of the Melbury, Vecina, and St. Eden labels are blended together to form Bond’s second wine, The Matriarch. This is a second wine in name only. The 2000 The Matriarch exhibits notes of dried Provencal herbs, roasted espresso, truffles, tar, meat, berries, and black currants. While attractive, it has less flavor dimension and volume than its younger sibling. |
| 2001 | Brancaia Ill Blu | 55% Sangiovese, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon | | 35.99 | 3 | 93WS |
| 1996 | Calon Segur | Bordeaux | | 51.00 | 1 | 92-94 |
| The 1996 may not be as profound as I had predicted from cask, but it is an exceptional wine. Dark ruby-colored, with a complex nose of dried herbs, Asian spices, and black cherry jam intermixed with cassis, it possesses outstanding purity, and considerable tannin in the finish. This classic, medium to full-bodied, traditionally made wine improves dramatically with airing, suggesting it will have a very long life |
| 1998 | Calon Segur (Magnum) | Bordeaux | | 69.00 | 1 | 89+ |
| 1999 | Cantina Del Notaio "La Firma" | Aglianico | | 41.00 | 3 | 90 |
| The superior 1999 Aglianico del Vulture La Firma was aged in 50% new oak. It is a modern-styled red that has not lost the typicity of this region of southern Italy known as Basilicata. It offers flamboyant aromas of pepper, earth, black fruits, sausage, and vanillin. Ripe, chewy, forceful, and dense, it should drink well for 7-8 years. |
| 1995 | Carruades de Lafite | Cabernet | | 32.00 | 4 | 87 |
| I have noticed in my tastings that the second wine of Lafite-Rothschild, Carruades de Lafite, has improved over recent years. The 1995 is a 40% Merlot/60% Cabernet Sauvignon blend. It exhibits more of the trademark characteristics of its bigger sibling. Elegant, with spicy new oak, lead pencil, and creamy black currant fruit, this is a medium-bodied, finesse-styled wine with excellent purity and overall equilibrium. It is much more accessible than the 1996, and should drink well between now and 2010. |
| 1999 | Carruades de Lafite | | | | 2 | |
| 2000 | Casa De La Ermita | | | | 2 | 90 |
| 1997 | Castel del Remei "1780" | Tempranillo/Granache | | 29.95 | 1 | |
| 1993 | Chapoutier "Chante Alouette" | Marsanne | | 30.01 | 1 | 91 |
| The 1993 Chante-Alouette is a large-scaled, thick, flowery, mineral, honeyed wine with a pronounced aroma of acacia flowers. Deep and full-bodied, with gobs of fruit, it is a superb white Hermitage for drinking over the next 10-20 years. |
| 1997 | Chapoutier "Chante-Alouette" | | | 20.99 | 1 | 90 |
| Readers should be able to find the Burgundian-styled 1997 Hermitage Chante Alouette. It achieved 13.9% natural alcohol, and was aged in small barriques, of which one-third were new. It offers the tell-tale acacia flower, white peach, honeyed citrus character commonly found in top white Hermitage. Full-bodied, with good fat and glycerin, it is ideal for drinking over the next decade (although it will undoubtedly keep much longer). |
| 2000 | Chapoutier Croix De Bois | | | 49.99 | 3 | 94 |
| From the eastern side of the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, from soils with less of the famed galets roules (the melon and football-sized boulders that cover much of the appellation), comes the Croix de Bois. The stunning 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois reveals aromas of sweet cherry liqueur intertwined with pepper, incense, and Asian spices. Spicy, with distinctive garrigue and lavender characteristics, it is a full-bodied, unctuously-textured, glorious heady, classic Chateauneuf to drink over the next 15-20 years |
| 2000 | Charvin CDP | | | 69.00 | 1 | 95 |
| 1998 | Chateau de la Gardine Cuvee de Generations | Grenache | | 41.66 | 2 | 94 |
| The most modern-styled of these 1998 Chateauneuf du Papes, La Gardine's effort, which experiences moderate exposure to new oak, exhibits an opaque ruby/purple color along with an international nose of creme de cassis, vanillin, licorice, and floral scents. In the mouth, however, there is no doubting it is a Chateauneuf du Pape as Provencal flavors make an appearance. Full-bodied, extremely concentrated, tannic, and backward, it requires 4-5 years of cellaring |
| 1998 | Cieux Sur Terre | Blend | | 16.00 | 1 | 87 |
| 1989 | Clerc Milon | Bordeaux | | | 2 | 90 |
| The 1989 Clerc-Milon is a wonderfully hedonistic wine. It is deep ruby, with an intense, roasted, smoky bouquet of plums and currants. This full-bodied wine is packed with fruit, is chewy and opulent as well as very soft and alcoholic. In spite of the precocious impression, the tannin levels are high, similar in fact to the 1986. For the first time in my experience, I actually prefer the Clerc-Milon to Mouton-Rothschild! A great value |
| 1996 | Clerc Milon | Bordeaux | | 51.00 | 1 | 89-90 |
| 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc |
| 1998 | Clos St. Marquis | | | | 1 | |
| 2001 | Clos de L'Oratoire | | | 19.99 | 2 | 88-90 |
| 1999 | Clos du Mont Olivet | | | | 5 | 89 |
| Readers seeking immediate gratification should check out Clos du Mont Olivet's 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape. Displaying a complex nose of mincemeat, dried Provencal herbs, balsam wood, pepper, and sweet cherry fruit, it is round, broad, and medium to full-bodied, with no hard edges. The color is an evolved garnet with plenty of pink at the edge. Clos du Mont Olivet's offerings have an uncanny ability to age well given their overall balance. |
| 1983 | Cos D'Estournal | Blend | | | 1 | |
| Elegant structure, yet disappears quickly |
| 1991 | Croft | Port | | | 1 | 93 |
| This impressive vintage port, from a firm that has not been numbered among the great port houses of the last century, may turn out to be the most impressive wine from Croft in decades. The healthy purple/black color is followed by copious aromas of licorice, chocolate, and over-ripe black fruits. Full-bodied and unctuously-textured, with layers of juicy, succulent, full-throttle fruit, glycerin, high alcohol, and powerful tannin, this large-scaled, youthful vintage port will benefit from 7-10 years of cellaring. It should drink well for 30+ years. |
| 2000 | Cuillron "Les Chaillets" | | | | 1 | |
| 1996 | D'Yquem | Semillon | | 91.00 | 1 | |
| 2000 | Damilano Barolo | | | 23.99 | 3 | WS93 |
| 1996 | De Sales | Merlot | | 23.00 | 4 | 79 |
| 1995 | Delaforce "Quinta de Corte" | | | 40.00 | 2 | |
| 1999 | Domaine Carneros | Pinot Noir | | | 1 | |
| 2000 | Domaine Carneros "Avante Garde" | | | | 1 | |
| 2001 | Domaine Charvin (Magnum) | | | | 1 | 95 |
| One of the most Burgundian-styled wines of the appellation is Charvin’s Chateauneuf du Pape, made in a style not dissimilar from the classic vintages of its nearby neighbor, Rayas. The deep ruby-colored 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape reveals a gorgeously scented nose of kirsch liqueur, plums, and figs. It boasts an expansive, full-bodied palate, great purity, a sensual, silky texture, and a long, flowing finish with raspberries, cherries, licorice, and a hint of roasted Provencal herbs. Always a model of symmetry, balance, and complexity, this is as complex and elegant as Chateauneuf du Pape gets |
| 2001 | Domaine Louis Cheze "Cuvee de Breze" | | | 22.00 | 4 | |
| 1994 | Dominus (Double Magnum) | Blend | | 500.00 | 1 | 99 |
| The 1994 is a strikingly thick, compellingly rich wine with the texture of a great Pomerol, despite being made primarily from Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine exhibits a dense purple color, and an incredibly fragrant nose of jammy black fruits, spice, smoke, and loamy, truffle-like scents. In the mouth, it is full-bodied, with thrilling levels of extract and richness, but no sense of heaviness or harshness. This seamless Dominus possesses no hard edges, as its acidity, tannin, and alcohol are beautifully meshed with copious quantities of ripe fruit. This wine offers early drinking, yet has the potential to last for 30+ years |
| 1994 | Dominus (Magnum) | Blend | | 299.00 | 1 | 99 |
| 2001 | Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Kabinett Trocken | | | 14.99 | 2 | |
| 1983 | Dow's | | | | 1 | |
| 2002 | Dr. Loosen Erdiner Trepchen Kabinett | Riesling | | 18.95 | 2 | 89 |
| 2002 | Dr. Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Spatlese | Riesling | | 34.95 | 2 | |
| 1995 | Duhart Milon | Blend | | 32.00 | 4 | 87 |
| Made from a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon/20% Merlot, the 1995 is slightly sweeter, more supple and slender than the broader-shouldered 1996. The wine's bouquet offers aromas of ripe berry fruit intermixed with minerals, toasty oak, and spice. Medium-bodied, with fine extract, it is a finesse-styled Pauillac (in the best sense of the word) |
| 2000 | Duhart Milon (Magnum) | | | | 1 | 90 |
| An outstanding Duhart, certainly one of the best produced at this estate since the 1996, 1986, and 1982, this blend of 80.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19.5% Merlot reveals a deep ruby/purple color as well as notes of lead pencil intermixed with wet stones, black currants, and a certain leafiness. Medium to full-bodied, ripe, and dense, but tightly-knit, with considerable tannin, it will require patience. For those willing to wait, it will be a sleeper of the vintage. |
| 1995 | Elderton Command Shiraz (Magnum) | Shiraz | | 150.00 | 1 | 94 |
| The opaque purple-colored 1995 Command Shiraz boasts huge toasty American oak aromas intermixed with thrilling levels of jammy black raspberry and berry fruit. The wine is explosively rich, with low acidity, and spectacular concentration and purity. Although not complex, it is mouth-filling, teeth-staining, and ostentatious. Drink it over the next 7-10+ years. I suspect This wine will become more civilized and less exuberant with bottle age. Elderton's wines are not for tasters seeking subtlety and elegance. This is an outrageously oaky, flamboyantly-styled offering with immense hedonistic appeal. |
| 1998 | Emilio Moro | | | | 5 | 90 |
| 1999 | Emilio Moro | | | | 1 | 92 |
| The Moro family has been fashioning wines from Ribera del Duero for over 120 years. This impressive offering emerges from relatively young vines (12-20 years of age), and modest yields. The vinification and upbringing is classical, with 25 days of maceration, and 12 months of aging in a combination of old and new French and American oak. One-thousand cases of this vintage has been exported to the United States. Given the quality, this is an realistically priced wine that merits considerable attention. The 1999 Moro, which reveals the vintage's super-ripeness, is a sexy, full-bodied, opulently-styled effort bursting with black fruits, licorice, smoky, toasty oak, and truffle notes. Lush and dense, it is an ideal candidate for drinking over the next 10-12 years. |
| 2000 | Emilio Moro | | | | 1 | 90 |
| 2001 | Feudi di San Gregorio "Serpico" | | | 59.90 | 2 | 98 |
| The 2001 Serpico, impenetrable and inky, staggeringly rich in both aroma and flavor, offers ultra-ripe but perfectly fresh berry fruit, cloves, cinnamon and chocolate, and mouth-coating, deep-pile tactile sensations which combine iron power and an enveloping voluptuous texture infinitely deep and long. I would be amazed if this wine did not last thirty years." |
| 1999 | Figeac | | | 33 | 3 | 89 |
| Complex aromas of figs, ripe plums, sweet cedar, tobacco, and new wood jump from the glass of this Burgundian-like St.-Emilion. It is medium-bodied, lush, and elegant, rather than powerful. The wine possesses supple tannin and a distinctive personality. Although it will not make old bones, it will offer graceful, well-balanced drinking over the next 12 years. |
| 2000 | Figeac (Magnum) | Bordeaux | | | 1 | 92-94 |
| Figeac has become a more consistent wine over the last few years. A profound effort, the surprisingly full-bodied 2000 Figeac has an opaque purple color accompanied by a terrific bouquet of camphor, graphite, black currants, licorice, and smoked herbs. With well-balanced, powerful tannin, concentration, and pinpoint precision, finesse, and purity, this expressive as well as textured effort will drink well between 2004-2018. When Figeac hits on all cylinders, one can understand why some tasters believe it is as complex as Cheval Blanc. This is undeniably the estate's finest effort since 1996. |
| 1998 | Gaja Conteisa | | | 79.99 | 2 | 92 |
| From the Barolo appellation, the 1998 Conteisa displays a distinctive bouquet of black cherry jam mixed with vitamins, smoke, iron, minerals, and spicy oak. In the mouth, earth, truffle, lead pencil, and espresso-infused cherry flavors make an appearance. Deep, rich, and full-bodied, with moderate tannin and power, this impressive offering requires 2-3 years of cellaring, and should age well for two decades. |
| 2000 | Graham's (magnum) | Port | | 99.95 | 1 | 94 |
| Grapy, unformed, black raspberry liqueur and licorice-infused cassis notes leap from the glass of this opaque purple-colored wine. Sweet, plush, rich, and accessible, it is a forward, lush, concentrated effort that should drink well for two decades. While not one of Graham's most profound ports, it should evolve rapidly, providing immense crowd appeal |
| 1998 | Guigal "Brune et Blonde" (Magnum) | Rhone | | 81.00 | 2 | 93 |
| Wine Spectator's #10 wine of 2002. Guigal's Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde (25,000 cases produced), tends to have 4-5% Viognier included in the blend. The 1998 exhibits some of the vintage's hard tannin, as well as complex aromatics of roasted olives, black currants, creamy oak, sweet cherries, and dried herbs. Medium to full-bodied and structured, with a sweet attack, it will benefit from another two years of cellaring, and last for 15 years. |
| 1996 | Guigal Chateauneuf du Papes | | | | 1 | |
| 1998 | Guigal Chateauneuf du Papes | | | | 1 | |
| 2001 | Guigal Crozes-Hermitage | | | | 1 | |
| 1998 | Guigal Gigondas | | | | 1 | |
| 2000 | Guigal St. Joseph | | | | 1 | |
| 2001 | Guiraud | Semillon | | 26.00 | 2 | 94 |
| 2000 | Harlan "Maiden" | Blend | | 325.00 | 3 | 89 |
| The 2000 The Maiden reflects the softness and easy-going nature of the vintage. Attractive in a fruit-driven, earthy style with notions of dried herbs intermixed with espresso roast, cappuccino, white chocolate, and black currants, this modestly-endowed, evolved 2000 is best consumed over the next 8-10 years.
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| 1999 | Harlan "The Maiden" | Blend | | 108.00 | 3 | 92 |
| The 1999 The Maiden (700 cases) is a more evolved, slightly lighter, less prodigious example of its bigger sibling, the Harlan Estate. The dense saturated purple-colored 1999 The Maiden exhibits an evolved sweet nose of cedar, black currants, licorice, and smoke as well as outstanding density, purity, and ripeness, medium to full body, and firm but unobtrusive tannin in the finish. It should drink well for 12-15 years, perhaps longer. As the wine sat in the glass, aromas of chocolate and cigar smoke emerged. |
| 1988 | Henriot Cuvee des Enchanteleurs | | | | 1 | |
| 2001 | Herman Weimer Semi-Dry Riesling | Chardonnay | | 13.60 | 1 | |
| 2002 | Hexamer Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Kabinett | Riesling | | 17.09 | 4 | 87 |
| 2001 | Hexamer Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Spatlese | Riesling | | 14.95 | 2 | 90 |
| 2002 | JJ Christoffel Erdener Treppchen Spatlese | Riesling | | 19.99 | 2 | 89 |
| 2002 | JJ Prum Kabinett | | | 9.99 | 2 | |
| 2002 | JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett | Riesling | | 24.95 | 2 | 92 |
| NV | Jacques Selosse Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs | | | 50.00 | 1 | 90 |
| 2002 | Johann Haart Piesporter Goldtropfchen Spatlese | Riesling | | 18.95 | 3 | 89 |
| The sweet mineral-scented 2002 Riesling Spatlese Piesporter Goldtropchen displays a lovely mouth-feel, purity, and depth. This satin-textured wine is light to medium-bodied, and fresh. White berries, spices, and some candied lemons are found in its flavor profile |
| 1999 | Joseph Phelps | Cabernet | | | 2 | 88 |
| The 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon is lean, austere, and displays its cool climate character. It reveals aromas and flavors of tobacco and cedar as well as a Bordeaux-like texture, and astringent tannin in the finish. This wine should drink well for 10-12 years. |
| 1996 | Joseph Phelps "Le Mistral" | | | | 1 | 90 |
| The 1996 Vin de Mistral Syrah is a sexy, lush, opulently-styled wine revealing more precociousness and early charm than I predicted a year ago. Aged in both American and French oak, it possesses a dark ruby/purple color, a spicy, bacon fat, cassis, and blackberry-scented nose, soft, lush flavors, and a heady, concentrated finish. It is best drunk during its first 10-12 years of life. |
| 1997 | Joseph Phelps "Le Mistral" | | | | 1 | |
| 2002 | Kay Brothers Amery Hillside | Shiraz | | 39.99 | 3 | 95 |
| A glorious example of South Australian Shiraz is the 2002 Shiraz Hillside. Made from relatively young vines (8-34 years of age), this flamboyant, pleasant 2002 is impossible to resist. Already rocking and rolling, it has 10-15 years of aging potential. A deep plum/ruby/purple hue is followed by glorious aromas of black fruits, flowers, dusty, loamy, truffle-like scents, and a classic combination of pepper and licorice. The wine saturates the palate with a seamless integration of acidity, tannin, and alcohol (15%). The finish is opulent and multilayered. This wine is finished with a screw cap. |
| 1999 | Kay Brothers Block 6 | Shiraz | | 42.00 | 3 | 95 |
| The 1999 Block 6 boasts layers of concentration, huge body, and massively extracted blackberry and cassis fruit intermixed with leather, animal fur, and licorice. There is a lot going on in this blockbuster, broodingly backward, yet super-concentrated Shiraz. It represents the best of McLaren Vale in a very traditional sense. This cuvee often shuts down after bottling, re-emerging in 4-5 years, and lasting for two decades. There are 450 cases produced of this estate's flagship wine. Walking past these 108-year old vines, I was amazed by their gnarled character (even though I have seen plenty of ancient vines in southern France). Anticipated maturity: 2004-2018. |
| 1999 | Kistler "Les Noistiers" | Chardonnay | | 30.60 | 3 | |
| 2002 | Kruger-Rumpf Munsterer Spatlese | Riesling | | 15.99 | 2 | 91 |
| 1995 | La Croix du Casse | Bordeaux | | 26.00 | 3 | 90 |
| An outstanding wine, this dense ruby/purple-colored 1995 offers up a knock-out nose of blackberries, cassis, minerals, and spicy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, with plenty of pain grille-like flavors and abundantly sweet fruit imbued with glycerin and tannin, this wine possesses a long mid-palate, as well as a finish that builds in the mouth. It is an impressively built, pure, rich Pomerol that merits considerable attention |
| 1996 | La Fleur Petrus | Bordeaux | | 41.00 | 3 | 89+ |
| This property has come of age with the acquisition of Le Gay's old vine parcel. It is now consistently one of the finest wines of the appellation, and clearly merits is famous name. The 1996 may deserve an outstanding score with a year or two of bottle age. It boasts an impressively saturated ruby/purple color, as well as a pure, sweet nose of cherries, plum liqueur, spicy oak, and floral scents. The wine possesses excellent depth, medium body, superb purity, and an overall elegant personality offering a combination of power and finesse. |
| 1999 | La Fleur Petrus (Magnum) | Bordeaux | | | 1 | 89 |
| This 1999 is performing well, with more power and depth after bottling than before. It exhibits a dense ruby color as well as a sweet nose of pure black cherry jam intermixed with hints of raspberry, new wood, and earth. It is surprisingly powerful for a 1999, with admirable ripeness, sweet tannin, and low acidity. Two to three years of cellaring is warranted. |
| 1998 | La Fleur de Bouard | Bordeaux | | | 3 | 89 |
| A dense black/plum/purple color is followed by a smoky, licorice, blackberry, and cassis-scented bouquet. Rich and long, with medium to full body, sweet tannin, and abundant glycerin, this 1998 can be drunk now and over the next 10-12 years.
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| 1999 | La Fleur de Bouard | Bordeaux | | | 1 | 90 |
| This excellent, dark ruby/purple-colored 1999 offers sweet toasty new oak and attractive blackberry and cassis fruit in a soft, well-made, delineated style. It possesses elegance, power, richness, and depth. This wine will be at its finest between 2003-2012. |
| 2000 | La Fleur de Bouard (Magnum) | Bordeaux | | | 1 | 91 |
| A saturated purple color is followed by a gorgeous perfume of ink, plum, cassis, licorice, smoke, and espresso. Dense, full-bodied, and opulent, offering a hedonistic as well as intellectual turn-on, it should drink well for 10-15 years.
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| 1988 | La Fleur de Gay | Bordeaux | | | 2 | 93 |
| The bouquet of the black/ruby/purple-colored 1988 remains tight, but with swirling, one can detect scents of smoky, toasty oak, black plums, allspice, and Asian spices. There are gobs of super-ripe fruit in this extremely concentrated wine. Very structured, with considerable tannin, this massive, full-bodied 1988 will provide a dazzling glass of decadent Pomerol |
| 1986 | La Mission Haut Brion | | | 75 | 2 | |
| 1994 | La Mission Haut Brion | | | 55.00 | 3 | 91 |
| This outstanding example of La Mission is surprisingly forward and velvety-textured. The dark purple color suggests high extraction. The fragrant, smoky, tobacco, leathery, roasted herb, and cassis-scented nose is a real turn on. Voluptuous, round, medium to full-bodied, and loaded with fruit, glycerin, complexity, and charm, this is a surprisingly open-knit (at least for now), intensely flavorful wine. |
| 1996 | La Mission Haut Brion | Blend | | 110.00 | 10 | 90-91+ |
| The 1996 La Mission-Haut-Brion was closed and backward when I tasted it in January. The wine was bottled in summer, 1998, and should have had sufficient time to overcome any suppression from going from wood to glass. It possesses considerable potential, and I would not be surprised to see it merit an outstanding score after 2-4 years of cellaring. The color is a healthy plum/purple, and the wine exhibits some of the black fruit, smoky mineral character of La Mission, but it is medium-bodied and moderately high in tannin, with notes of cedar. The finish was totally closed, with the tannin in danger of dominating the wine's fruit. This muscular, structured La Mission will take longer to come around than I originally predicted. |
| 1999 | La Mission Haut Brion "La Chapelle de la Mission" | Bordeaux | | | 4 | 88 |
| The 1999 La Chapelle is a wonderful second wine, offering sweet tobacco and currants in a smoky, straightforward, luscious style. Enjoy it over the next 5-8 years. |
| 2001 | Lafaurie-Peyraguey | | | 22.5 | 2 | 91-94 |
| 2001 | Lamothe-Guignard | | | 15.00 | 2 | 89-91 |
| 1995 | Latour "Les Forts de Latour" | Blend | | 33.00 | 6 | 89+ |
| Latour's second wine, Forts de Latour, is now one of the two or three finest second wines of Bordeaux (Bahans-Haut-Brion and the Clos du Marquis of Leoville Las-Cases are two other personal favorites). The terrific, dark ruby/purple-colored 1995 possesses a sweet, jammy black fruit-scented nose intertwined with smoky minerals, earth, and spicy oak. The wine is surprisingly thick and rich in the mouth, with its glycerin and concentration of fruit largely concealing the moderate tannin. This excellent, sweet wine is less powerful, but more accessible than the 1996. |
| 1995 | Le Vieux Donjon (Magnum) | Rhone | | 75.00 | 2 | 90 |
| The 1995 remains closed, but promising. Its garnet/plum/purple color is followed by sweet aromas of roasted herbs, black cherries, incense, licorice, iodine, and earth. Medium to full-bodied, structured, and muscular, it is still youthful and exuberant, with plenty of tannin to shed. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2014. |
| 1998 | Le Vieux Donjon (Magnum) | Rhone | | 125.00 | 2 | 95 |
| The 1998, a classic in the making, is, along with the 1990, one of the two finest Vieux Donjons I have tasted. The backward 1998 offers aromas of incense, roasted herbs, lavender, licorice, and kirsch liqueur in a full-bodied, sweet, expansive, structured style. It should last another 15-20 years |
| 1998 | Leda (Magnum) | | | 62.00 | 1 | 90+ |
| This 20,000 bottle cuvee, made from old vine Tempranillo fermented and aged in new oak, is essentially a vin de pays, even though it is just outside the appellation of Ribera del Duero. It reveals abundant spicy oak, full body, and layers of fruit and richness in its concentrated, powerful personality. Two to three years of cellaring will help it become more civilized, but there is a lot going on in this massive offering |
| 2002 | Leitz Rudesheimer Drachenstein "Dragonstone" | Riesling | | 13.99 | 4 | |
| 2003 | Leitz Rudesheimer Drachenstein "Dragonstone" | Riesling | | 13.99 | 1 | |
| 1996 | Leoville-Barton | Bordeaux | | 51.00 | 1 | 91-94+ |
| Exceptionally powerful, dense and layered. Patience is required. |
| 1998 | Lucian Barrot | Rhone | | 26.00 | 8 | 89 |
| The complex, earth, plum, herb, cherry, and currant-scented 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape is a complete, rich, layered wine. It reveals considerable structure at present (it was just bottled), with moderate levels of tannin, a spicy, animal-like characteristic, and flavors of black cherry, kirsch liqueur, and incense. It has the potential to improve for 5-6 years, and drink well for 12-14 years. |
| 1998 | Lucien Barrot (Magnum) | | | | 1 | |
| 2000 | Lynch Bages (Magnum) | Bordeaux | | | 1 | 94-96 |
| An utterly profound Lynch-Bages, this wine continues to remind me of a hypothetical blend of the 1990 and 1989. Interestingly, when I asked Jean-Michel Cazes to rank his top four vintages of Lynch-Bages, he ranked the 1989 first, followed by three vintages that he said were essentially equivalent in quality - 1990, 1996, and 2000. The 2000 Lynch-Bages exhibits a dense purple color, loads of glycerin and extract, big, muscular, sweet creme de cassis notes, with hints of new saddle leather, earth, and tobacco leaf. The 2000 is forceful yet plush, with a thick, juicy, succulent mid-palate, ripe tannin, and a long, layered finish. I know it will be tempting to pull corks on this wine in its youth, but it really will not hit its stride for 7-10 years and will last for at least 25. |
| 2002 | Marc Morey Chassagne Montrachet "Caillerets" | Chardonnay | | 32.50 | 3 | 93 |
| Loads of pears, apples, and stones can be discerned in the aromatics of the 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet Caillerets. This lush, medium-bodied wine has a lively, smoky, spicy personality. It offers outstanding depth and a flavorful, lengthy finish. Drink it over the next 7 years.
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| 2002 | Marc Morey Chassagne Montrachet "Les Chenevottes" | Chardonnay | | 30.50 | 3 | 91 |
| The light to medium-bodied, mineral-scented 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet Chenevottes is a concentrated, precise, deep, crystalline wine. Loads of quartz and gravel flavors can be found throughout its silky-textured character as well as in its prolonged finish. Drink it over the next 6 years. |
| 2002 | Marc Morey Chassagne Montrachet "Les Vergers" | Chardonnay | | 30.50 | 2 | 90 |
| Copious quantities of gravel can be found in the aromatics of the 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet Vergers. Suave, supple, and light to medium-bodied, this is an extremely well-focused wine with limestone and chalk flavors. Somewhat tightly wound, it will need to flesh out to merit a more exalted review. Drink it over the next 6-7 years. |
| 2002 | Marc Morey Chassagne Montrachet "Morgeot" | Chardonnay | | 30.50 | 2 | 92 |
| The 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeots is a deeply spicy, almond-scented wine. Medium-bodied, broad, concentrated, and fun, it bastes the palate with lively pears, apples, and spices. Its exceptionally long, expressive finish reveals more layers of clove-studded apples. Drink this beauty over the next 6-7 years. |
| 2002 | Marc Morey Chassagne Montrachet "Virondot" | Chardonnay | | 30.50 | 3 | 92 |
| Terroirists amongst our readership should note that I believe Maison Marc Morey’s Chassagne-Montrachet Virondots is the only wine from this vineyard on the market. The 2002 displays a spicy nose reminiscent of a liqueur of herbs such as Chartreuse. Light to medium-bodied, plush, powerful, and broad, this is a rich, fleshy, deep wine packed with flowers, stones, and pears. |
| 1995 | Marcoux "Vieilles Vignes" | | | | 2 | 94 |
| Unlike many wines from this vintage, the 1995 is approaching full maturity. It exhibits a deep plum/purple color as well as a sweet bouquet of figs, prunes, black raspberries, and blackberries (always a hallmark of this old vine cuvee). Full-bodied and unctuous, with high tannin, glycerin, and richness, it will provide immense pleasure over the next 17-18 years. |
| 1999 | Marcoux "Vieilles Vignes" | Rhone | | 91 | 3 | 91 |
| Very good is the 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes. Its dark ruby color with notions of pink at the rim is followed by a striking bouquet of violets intermixed with blackberry jam, licorice, and tapenade. This full-bodied, expansive, concentrated, spicy wine is dazzling stuff. |
| 2001 | Marcoux "Vieilles Vignes" | | | 135.00 | 2 | 96-100 |
| The 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes may not attain the perfection of the 1998, or the pure exuberance and voluptuousness of the 2000, but it is a brilliant effort. A wine of nobility as well as purity, this cuvee, made primarily from 50-100 year old Grenache vines, exhibits a dark plum/purple color as well as a sumptuous bouquet of Provencal herbs, roasted meats, creme de cassis, blackberries, and violets. Floral and full-bodied with a seamlessness that only old vines can provide, it possesses rich, concentrated, pure fruit, low acidity, and admirable delineation (because of its tannic structure). Give it 2-3 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 15-18 years. |
| 2000 | Marcoux "Vielles Vignes" | | | 67.00 | 1 | 100 |
| The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes carries its 15% alcohol well. Though a compelling offering, and undoubtedly one of the wines of the vintage, it does not possess that magical extra dimension of greatness found in the 2001. Nevertheless, I would be thrilled to drink it anytime ... anywhere! The floral component of white flowers intermixed with melted licorice, blackberry liqueur, plums, and prunes is followed by an expansive, sexy, silky-textured, full-bodied Chateauneuf with great depth, purity, and lusciousness. As with its younger sibling, the finish lasts for nearly a minute. Again, it is a singular expression of Chateauneuf du Pape that is totally different than its peers. Strikingly rich, dense, and opulent, with a breathtaking array of complexity and flavors, its low acidity, ripe tannin, and wealth of glycerin suggest drinking it now and over the next 15-16 years.
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| 1994 | Margaux (Magnum) | Bordeaux | | | 1 | 92 |
| Since 1978 there have been only two first-growths (or two of the so-called "big eight" of Bordeaux) that have been consistently excellent to superb - Chateau Haut-Brion and Chateau Margaux. Margaux's admirable consistency is well-displayed in the 1993-95 wines. Chateau Margaux was one of the last estates to bottle their 1994 (September, 1996), hoping to soften the vintage's high, hard tannin level. The wine has turned out to be a classic, long-lived Margaux. The opaque purple color is followed by this estate's tell-tale aromas of flowers, blackcurrants, licorice, and smoky oak. This dense, powerful, closed wine is a true vin de gard. It needs a decade of cellaring, but it should last for 25-35 years. Readers may find this wine reminiscent of the 1988, only riper and more powerful. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2030. |
| 2001 | Mas Igneus FA112 | | | | 3 | 90 |
| The outstanding 2001 F.A. 112 (a blend of 65% Grenache, 25% Carignan, and 10% Syrah aged one year in new French oak, and bottled unfiltered) boasts a dense ruby/purple color as well as a sweet nose of creme de cassis intermixed with melted licorice, pepper, and hints of earth as well as oak. Medium to full-bodied, with moderate tannin, and sweet, pure flavors, it should be drunk over the next 10-12 years. This is an outstanding value. |
| 2000 | Mas Igneus FA206 | | | | 1 | 88 |
| 2002 | Merkerlbach Urziger Wurzgarten Spatlese | Riesling | | 14.39 | 2 | 88 |
| 2002 | Meulenhof Erdener Treppchen Kabinett | Riesling | | 13.95 | 3 | 88 |
| 2000 | Montiano Falesco | Merlot | Calvert Woodley (Beth) | 31.83 | 3 | 94 |
| Falesco's top offering is a 100% barrique-aged Merlot, the 2000 Montiano. While it may not equal the quality of the 1999 or 1997, it comes close. The 2000 boasts an opaque purple color in addition to a sumptuous perfume of graphite, blackberries, currants, licorice, and subtle pain grille notes. With great depth, full body, sweet tannin, and a long, layered, elegant finish, it should drink well between 2005-2020. Bravo! |
| 1996 | Montrose | Bordeaux | | 70.00 | 1 | 90-93 |
| The 1996 Montrose reveals outstanding potential. It boasts a saturated dark ruby/purple color, and aromas of new oak, jammy black currants, smoke, minerals, and new saddle leather. This multi-layered wine is rich and medium to full-bodied, with sweet tannin, a nicely-textured, concentrated mid-palate, and an impressively long finish. |
| 1995 | Muga Prado Enea | | | 25.00 | 3 | 89 |
| This traditional winery continues to turn out complex, aromatic reds. While they often lack color, they possess an enticing delicacy that in some cases is Pinot Noir-like. That characteristic is found in the 1995 Prado Enea Gran Reserva. Notes of dried herbs, sweet cherry jam, new saddle leather, tobacco, and spice box are followed by a medium-bodied wine with copious plum and cherry flavors. As it sits in the glass, hints of rose petals emerge. Drink it over the next 3-8 years. |
| 1997 | Muga Reserve | | | | 6 | |
| 1995 | Nicholas Fuillatte "Palm D’Or" | | | | 1 | |
| | Nigl Kremser Kremsleiten Riesling | | | 30.59 | 1 | |
| 2002 | Numanthia | Tinto de toro | | 42.00 | 2 | |
| 1999 | Numanthia "Termes" | | | | 3 | |
| 2000 | Numanthia "Termes" | | | | 2 | |
| 1999 | Numanthia (Magnum) | Tempranillo | | 110.00 | 1 | 95 |
| The soon-to-be-released 1999 Numanthia confirms just how special these wines are. An amazing effort from Toro, it was made from yields of 1.5 tons of fruit per acre, aged 18 months in new French wood, and bottled with neither fining nor filtration. A black/ruby color is followed by an explosive perfume of sweet blackberries, cassis, licorice, minerals, and smoke. With great intensity, fabulously sweet tannin, and high glycerin levels, this wine establishes a new benchmark for the Toro appellation. There are 300 cases of the 1999 for the American marketplace.
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| 2001 | Patrick Lesec Marquis | | | 19.99 | 2 | 91 |
| The 2,000-case cuvee of 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Marquis is dominated by Grenache with dollops of Mourvedre and Syrah included. One-hundred percent of the stems were utilized during the fermentation. This superb offering reveals a deep ruby/garnet color in addition to a sweet bouquet of kirsch liqueur, roasted meats, figs, lavender, and freshly ground Provencal herbs. It is an unctuously rich, full-bodied, dense Chateauneuf du Pape with low acidity and tremendous fruit intensity. It can be drunk now or cellared for 12-14 years. |
| 2001 | Paul Autard CDP | | | 23.99 | 2 | 90 |
| Paul Autard’s 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape is a forward, heady effort revealing notes of Asian spices, new saddle leather, peppery, sweet black cherry fruit, and wood smoke. Medium to full-bodied, lush, and surprisingly opulent for this structured vintage, it will drink well for 7-8 years. |
| 1999 | Peby Faugeres (Magnum) | Blend | | 185.00 | 1 | 94 |
| This opaque, purple-colored 1999 boasts a gorgeous nose of blueberry liqueur intermixed with cedar, spice box, coffee, and cassis. It is extremely supple-textured, spicy, with an expansive, savory, full-bodied palate, no hard edges, and a finish that lasts for nearly 35 seconds. This is an amazing wine for the vintage. It will be at its finest between 2003-2018. A brilliant effort! |
| 1996 | Pesquera Reserva Millenium (Magnum) | Tempranillo | | 280.00 | 1 | 95 |
| 1993 | Pichon Baron | | | | 4 | 84 |
| An evolved dark garnet color is followed by vegetal, green pepper-like aromas, and some sweet, redcurranty fruit. Given the laudable consistency of Pichon-Longueville-Baron since the late eighties, the 1993 is mediocre. It is soft, vegetal, and easy to drink, but uninteresting |
| 1988 | Pichon-Longueville Baron | Blend | | | 2 | 90 |
| The 1988 Pichon-Longueville promises to be one of the half-dozen superstars of this vintage. Surprisingly large-scaled for a 1988, with an oaky, cassis, and licorice-scented nose, it is deep in color, rich, softly tannic, medium to full-bodied, and should reach maturity early on, but keep for 15-20 years. |
| Leg of lamb |
| 1996 | Pichon-Longueville Baron | | | 37.50 | 3 | 91 |
| Pichon Longueville Baron's 1996 has turned out to be even better than I thought from cask. The high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend (about 80%) resulted in a wine that has put on weight in the bottle. An opaque purple color is accompanied by beautiful aromas of tobacco, new saddle leather, roasted coffee, and cassis. It is dense, medium to full-bodied, and backward, with moderately high tannin, but plenty of sweet fruit, glycerin, and extract to balance out the wine's structure. This well-endowed, classic Pauillac should be at its finest between 2006-2022. |
| 1998 | Pine Ridge SLV (Magnum) | | | | 1 | |
| 2000 | Poliziano Vino di Montepulciano Asinone | Sangiovese | | 25.00 | 2 | 91 |
| The 2000 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vigna Asinone is from a saddle-back hillside vineyard to the west of the city. It is unquestionably a top source of superior Sangiovese. Darker, more ruby and blacker in tonality than the regular bottling, warm and ripe in aroma with berries, vanilla, and cinnamon front and center, its flavors are long and focused. The continuity of flow across the palate is impressive, the density level high, and the force and elegance in excellent balance. The suppleness suggests a readiness which could well be deceptive. The wine will still be drinking well between 2012 and 2014. |
| 1997 | Puy-Blanquet | Bordeaux | | 22.00 | 2 | |
| 1999 | Raymond Usseglio "Imperiale" | | | | 6 | 92 |
| The top cuvee of old vines, the 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Imperiale reveals a dense ruby-purple color, along with complexity in the nose (seaweed, balsam, ripe black cherries, and earth). Expansive and full-bodied, with noticeable tannin in the fabulous finish, this sumptuous, powerful 1999 is impressive, particularly in view of the vintage |
| 1998 | Remirez de Ganuza (Magnum) | | | | 1 | 95 |
| The 1998 exhibits a dark plum/purple color along with an extraordinary perfume of liquid minerals, cassis, black cherries, tobacco, spice box, and vanillin. There is fabulous density on the palate, high tannin, admirable concentration, and a structured finish. This Rioja requires 3-5 years of cellaring, but appears to be the finest cuvee yet produced by this estate. |
| 1998 | Rene Mure Clos St. Landelin Vorbourg Gew. VT | Gewurztraminer | | 29.99 | 2 | 92 |
| The youthful 1998 Gewurztraminer Vorbourg Clos St. Landelin Vendange Tardive has not yet developed its aromatics. On the palate, however, it is a super-rich, oily-textured, and ample offering. Readers searching for a refined, well-detailed, elegant, and powerful Gewurztraminer will love its yellow plum (mirabelle), lychee, and rose-flavored character. While it is not veryu opulent and concentrated, it admirably combines elegance with exuberance. |
| 1996 | Rene Renou "Beauregard" | Chenin Blanc | | 29.99 | 2 | 90 |
| The floral-scented Bonnezeaux Beauregard displays beautiful drive, concentration of fruit, a medium-to-full body and ripe pear, quinine and flint flavors. Powerful, yet elegant, it is an outstanding wine for drinking between 2000-2014 |
| 1996 | Rene Renou "La Montague" | Chenin Blanc | | 29.99 | 2 | 92 |
| The Bonnezeaux La Montagne offers expressive aromas of sweetened Earl Grey tea, honey and minerals as well as a highly-concentrated personality packed with brown sugar and quince flavors. Medium-to-full-bodied and powerful, this wine possesses superb balance and driving acidity. |
| 2002 | Rene Renou "Les Melleresses" | Chenin Blanc | | | 1 | |
| 1996 | Rene Renou "Melleresses" | Chenin Blanc | | 29.99 | 2 | 92 |
| Exhibiting chamomile tea and sweet lemon candy aromas, the Bonnezeaux Les Melleresses has an enveloping warmth to its character. Quince, honey, slate and mineral flavors are found in its thick medium-to-full body. This wine will need a few years of cellaring before it expresses itself fully. |
| 1989 | Rieussec | Semillon | | 48.00 | 1 | |
| After a period of prolonged disjointedness, this wine has pulled itself together. The color is deep straw, and the wine displays an intense perfume of creme brulee custard, baked apple pie, and sweet, ripe pineapples and pears. Full-bodied, rich, alcoholic, and fat, with low acidity and considerable sweetness, this is a luxuriously rich, unctuously-textured, heavyweight Sauternes that should become more civilized with age |
| 2002 | Rijckaert "Arbois Chantemerle" | Chardonnay | | 14.99 | 3 | 89 |
| 2002 | Rijckaert "Arbois en Paradis" | Chardonnay | | 14.99 | 3 | 89 |
| The explosive 2002 Arbois En Paradis Chardonnay bursts from the glass with green apple aromas as well as flavors. Supple, satiny-textured and boldly expressive, this is a medium-bodied wine for drinking over the next 5-6 years. |
| 2002 | Rijckaert "Cotes du Juras Vignes de Voises" | Chardonnay | | 14.99 | 2 | 90 |
| The 2002 Cotes du Jura Vigne des Voises offers mineral and slate aromas. Medium-bodied, well-focused, and lemony, it is a juicy offering dominated by liquid minerals. This pure, silky-textured effort also reveals a lengthy finish. |
| 2002 | Rijckaert "Pouilly Fuisse en Croux Vieilles Vignes" | Chardonnay | | 26.99 | 3 | 92-94 |
| The boldly aromatic 2002 Pouilly-Fuisse Les Croux Vieilles Vignes displays syrupy mineral scents. Armed with fabulous balance, this thick, rich, resiny wine bastes the palette with poached pear, apricot, and white peach flavors that linger in its exceptionally long finish. Medium to full-bodied and velvety-textured, it is a candidate for drinking over the next 6 years. |
| 1997 | San Vicente | | | | 3 | 89 |
| 1998 | San Vicente (Magnum) | Tempranillo | | | 1 | 90 |
| 2002 | Selbach-Oster Kabinett | Riesling | | | 1 | 88 |
| 2002 | Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Kabinett | Riesling | | 17.95 | 3 | |
| 1999 | Shafer "Relentless" | Syrah | | | 1 | 93 |
| The debut release of Syrah, from a 17-acre vineyard planted in the southern Napa Valley, was named Relentless. There are 1,900 cases of this cuvee, which spends 28 months in new French oak. The 1999 Relentless (81% Syrah and 19% Petite Sirah) has been previously reviewed (in issue #139) and is listed for academic purposes only. It is a fabulous wine that was equaled by what was produced in 2000, and surpassed by its 2001 counterpart. |
| 1998 | Sierra Cantabria "Cuvee Especial" | | | | 2 | 89 |
| 1996 | Smith-Haut-Lafitte | Blend | | 39.00 | 4 | 90 |
| The 1996 Smith-Haut-Lafitte is the quintessentially elegant Bordeaux. With a dark ruby/purple color, it displays a beautiful presentation of blackberry and cassis fruit nicely dosed with subtle new oak. On the attack, the wine is sweet and pure, with striking symmetry, and a compellingly balanced mid-palate and finish. Although not as big as some blockbusters from this vintage, it is extremely complex (both aromatically and flavor-wise), and impressive for its restraint, subtlety, and impeccable balance. |
| 1998 | Smith-Haut-Lafitte | | | 55.00 | 2 | 90 |
| A beautiful wine of symmetry, finesse, and elegance, this deep ruby/purple-colored offering reveals classic aromas of black currants, new wood, and scorched earth. This pure, medium-bodied, restrained, measured, graceful 1998 offers impressive overall symmetry as well as well-integrated tannin. |
| 1999 | Smith-Haut-Lafitte | Blend | | 33.00 | 6 | 90 |
| This is a sizable wine for the vintage, although I do not believe it will have the longevity of the 1998 or 2000. A deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by sweet, asphalt-tinged, earthy, cassis fruit with toasty pain grille notes in the background. There are loads of fruit and charm as well as a creamy texture revealing hints of tobacco, currants, and wood smoke. It is medium-bodied and supple-textured, and will provide ideal drinking over the next 12-15 years. |
| 2000 | Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Magnum) | Bordeaux | | | 1 | 94 |
| A sensational effort, and undeniably the finest wine to ever emerge from this estate, the opaque purple-colored 2000 offers scents of tobacco, camphor, graphite, creme de cassis, and licorice. This full-bodied, concentrated effort possesses low acidity, a multi-layered texture, tremendous intensity of flavor, and a persistent finish with considerable ripe, well-integrated tannin. This is a brilliant example of equilibrium and finesse allied to considerable power and flavor. Kudos to the Cathiards |
| 2000 | Sociando Mallet (Magnum) | Bordeaux | | | 1 | 93 |
| A breathtakingly beautiful Sociando-Mallet with a dense ruby/purple color and a bouquet of ink, mineral, graphite, vanilla, and creme de cassis, the 2000 boasts superb concentration, great definition and intensity, ripe tannin, and a long finish of more than 40 seconds. This is top-flight, classified growth-quality stuff. So what's new? This continues to be an over-achieving estate! It will be long-lived. |
| 2002 | Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Kabinett | Riesling | | 18.95 | 5 | 92 |
| 2002 | St. Urbans Hof Riesling | Riesling | | 8.99 | 2 | 88 |
| 2001 | Staatsweingut Bad Kreuznach Auslese | | | 17.00 | 1 | |
| 2002 | Staatsweingut Bad Kreuznach Spatlese | | | 16.00 | 2 | |
| 1998 | Suduiraut | Semillon | | 30.50 | 2 | 88-91 |
| 1999 | Suduiraut | Semillon | | 30.62 | 2 | |
| 2000 | Tardieu-Laurent CDP | | | | 3 | 90 |
| 2001 | Terrabianca "Scassino" | Sangiovese | | 16.95 | 3 | |
| 1997 | Terrabianca Campaccio (Magnum) | | | | 1 | |
| 1997 | Terrabianca Campaccio Riserva (Magnum) | | | 125.00 | 1 | 92 |
| The 1997 Campaccio Riserva (a 1,000-case blend of 65% Sangiovese and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon aged two years in primarily French oak) rachets up the concentration level a notch or two, revealing an expansive, layered palate, a deep ruby/purple color, noticeable new oak, thick, juicy flavors, plenty of power yet admirable elegance, purity, and overall harmony. The tannin is well integrated in this large-scaled, concentrated, complex Italian red |
| 1996 | Torre Muga | Rioja | | | 2 | 92 |
| 1996 | Torre Muga (Magnum) | | | | 2 | 92 |
| The United States received 1,000 cases of the luxury cuvee, the 1996 Torre Muga. A blend of 75% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, and 10% Graciano, this offering spends 22 months in large American oak vats, followed by 16 months in French casks, prior to being bottled without filtration. An amazing effort, it somehow benefits from such a long wood aging regime. The opaque dense purple color is accompanied by scents of black fruits, minerals, scorched earth, cedar, tobacco, and spice box. Full-bodied, with great concentration, as well as a tightly-knit personality, this powerful, muscular wine demands 4-5 years of cellaring. |
| 1996 | Trotonoy | | | 51.00 | 1 | 89+ |
| 1998 | Vall Lach "Embruix" | | | | 3 | 90 |
| The 1998 Embruix, is a blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Carignan aged in one and two year old French oak barrels. It is a lovely, ripe effort with aromas of plums, black cherries, vanilla, and minerals. Medium to full-bodied, pure, well-balanced, and long, it offers a sweet attack as well as a tannic finish, suggesting another 1-2 years of cellaring is merited. It should keep for 12-15 years. |
| 2002 | Vall Llach | 50% Carinera, 35% Merlot, 15% Cab Sauvignon | | 56.00 | 2 | |
| 2001 | Vinedos de Paganos "El Puntido" | Tempranillo | | 32.00 | 2 | |
| 1994 | Warre | Port | | | 1 | 94 |
| One of the finest Warres I have ever tasted, this opaque purple-colored wine is made in a drier style (a la Dow), yet it is expressive, extremely full-bodied, with superb richness, purity, and well-integrated alcohol and tannin. It possesses a great mid-palate as well as impressive length. Tasters should take note of the wealth of peppery, licorice-scented and flavored raspberry and blackcurrant fruit. Look for it to be ready to drink in 10-12 years, and keep for 30+. This is a profound example of Warre vintage port. |
| 2001 | Willi Haag Braunberger Juffer Auslese #9 | | | 22.99 | 1 | |
| 2002 | Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Kabinett | Riesling | | | 6 | 92-94 |
| The broad, ample, medium-bodied 2002 Riesling Kabinett Graacher Domprobst A.P. #0703 sports a nose of spiced apples and smoky slate. It juxtaposes the fat, pulp-laden fruit found in the finest 2002s with superb purity and liveliness. Apples, minerals, lemongrass, and currants can be discerned in its zesty character as well as in its huge length. Thank God nobody told Willi Schaeffer that Kabinetts aren’t supposed to be this great! |
| 2002 | Williams Selyem Allen Vineyard | Chardonnay | | 50.00 | 1 | 94-96 |
| Revealing a more evolved color than the 2001, the 2002 Chardonnay Allen Vineyard offers a magnificent aromatic display of rich fruit, liquid minerality, caramel, toffee, licorice, and honeysuckle in a sumptuous, full-bodied style. The finish is extremely long (about 40 seconds). This stupendous Chardonnay should be drinkable when released, and last for 5-6 years ... at the minimum |
| 2002 | Williams Selyem Hawk Hill Vineyard | Chardonnay | | 44.00 | 1 | 91-93 |
| 2002 | Williams Selyem Heintz Vineyard | Chardonnay | | 40.00 | 1 | 94-97 |
| 1992 | Zind Humbrecht Clos Jebsel Tokay Pinot Gris VT | Pinot Gris | | 40.00 | 1 | 95 |
| Domaine Zind-Humbrecht has released two Vendange Tardive wines from the 1992 vintage. Both are outstanding. The more impressive is the 1992 Tokay Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Vendange Tardive. An off-dry wine of extraordinary elegance, authoritative flavors, and amazing power, it is crammed with layers of fruit buttressed by adequate acidity. It is a winemaking tour de force! |
| 1992 | Zind Humbrecht Clos Windsbuhl Gewurztraminer | Gewurztraminer | | 40.00 | 1 | 89 |
| The pale straw-colored (with youthful hints of green) 1992 Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl has an introverted, flower and white fruit-scented nose. Its relatively high levels of CO2 have kept its straightforward personality fresh and lively. Delicate flowers, minerals, and pears are found in its subtly-flavored core. It should be drunk over the next 2-3 years. |
| 1993 | Zind Humbrecht Clos Windsbuhl Riesling | Riesling | | 40.00 | 1 | 92 |
| The 1993 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl (12.5% alcohol) possesses the highest acidity of the eight Rieslings reviewed in this issue. It is produced from a hallowed, enclosed vineyard (that I took a promenade through not long ago) located near the most famous dry Riesling Alsatian vineyard, the Clos Ste.-Hune of Domaine Trimbach. This area has a cooler micro-climate than some of the southern Alsatian vineyards such as Rangen or Brand. The wines produced from this area are explosively rich yet remarkably well-delineated, slightly austere in their infancy, but amazingly concentrated and complex. The 1993 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl requires 2-3 years of cellaring, and should age gracefully for 20+ years. The grapes were picked at near SGN (Selection de Grains Nobles) ripeness, but vinified totally dry. It is a super-pure expression of stony Riesling, with an explosive finish that suggests greatness after a few years of cellaring. Readers can be sure I will be trying to latch on to a few bottles of this wine |
| 1996 | Zind Humbrecht Clos Windsbuhl Riesling | Riesling | | 40.00 | 1 | 96 |
| The 1996 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl has a straw color as well as an extremely spicy nose of honeyed minerals and over-ripe white fruits. This medium-bodied, suave, opulently-textured, and fiercely focused wine extraordinarily combines huge richness of fruit with a vibrant, bright acidity. Its mineral-dominated, bone-dry personality remains tightly wound so it will require patience on the part of those lucky enough to own it. |
| 1993 | Zind Humbrecht Clos Windsbuhl Tokay Pinot Gris | Pinot Gris | | 40.00 | 1 | 96 |
| One of the great wines among the impressive 1993 line-up is the 1993 Tokay Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl. This is one of the few Tokays where no botrytis formed because of this vineyard's cool climate and well-drained soils. The wine puts on an amazing demonstration of power and finesse, with layers of opulently rich, creamy, honeyed fruit, fine acidity, and a dry, whoppingly long finish that lasts nearly a minute. When tasting this wine, I thought it to be extremely unevolved and youthful, with at least 10-15 years of aging potential. Its purity is something to behold. No one produces such dry, full-bodied, creamy, unctuously-textured Tokay Pinot Gris as the top Alsatian wineries. Tokay Pinot Gris is considered to be the Montrachet of Alsace. And they should be as many of these wines make a mockery of most Montrachets. |
| 1994 | Zind Humbrecht Heimbourg Pinot Gris VT | Pinot Gris | | 40.00 | 1 | 98 |
| I tasted four Vendange Tardive Pinot Gris offerings from the Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in 1994. Almost all were made from yields that averaged one-half to just over a ton of fruit per acre! Their alcohol levels are in the 15%+ range. Readers should recognize that all of these wines take concentration, extract, intensity, alcohol, purity, and mouth-savoring characteristics to the maximum. In short, they represent the essence of great winemaking - tiny yields from profoundly well-placed vineyards, spectacular concentration and balance, and the potential for 25-30+ years of ageability. Depending on the level of acidity (unusually high in this vintage) these wines taste off-dry rather than moderately sweet. To reiterate, only the greatest Montrachets from Burgundy attain this stature. And if the truth be known, these wines are richer and more ageworthy than most Montrachets |
| 1993 | Zind Humbrecht Heimbourg Tokay Pinot Gris | Pinot Gris | | 40.00 | 1 | 94 |
| The 1993 Tokay Pinot Gris Heimbourg reveals noticeable botrytis scents in the exotic, honeyed nose. Slightly off-dry, but extremely powerful and intense, and almost oily in its richness, this 14% alcohol Tokay should drink well for 12-15 years. No one produces such dry, full-bodied, creamy, unctuously-textured Tokay Pinot Gris as the top Alsatian wineries. Tokay Pinot Gris is considered to be the Montrachet of Alsace. And they should be as many of these wines make a mockery of most Montrachets. |
| 1993 | Zind Humbrecht Hengst Gewurztraminer | Gewurztraminer | | 40.00 | 1 | 94 |
| There is no evidence of botrytis in the full-bodied, intense, awesomely concentrated 1993 Gewurztraminer Hengst. It offers scents of minerals, roses, and tropical fruits, followed by great precision in the layers of flavor that cascade across the palate. This wine delivers a mouthfilling, decadent style of dry, frightfully rich and intense Gewurztraminer. It should last for 15+ years. Wow! |
| 1993 | Zind-Humbrecht Clos Jebsal Tokay Pinot Gris | Pinot Gris | | 40.00 | 1 | 96 |
| The 1993 Tokay Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal was made from grapes picked at the potential of 16.3% alcohol and vinified to an almost Vendange Tardive sweetness (3.5% residual sugar). It offers a mouthful of huge, honeyed, massive fruit buttressed by vibrant acidity. This powerful, concentrated wine must be drunk with intensely-flavored dishes. Although not for everybody, it is a blockbuster wine that will evolve gracefully for 20-25 years. |
| 1995 | Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain | Riesling | | 30.01 | 2 | 93 |
| The 1995 Riesling Rangen Clos St.-Urbain (made from 18 hectoliters per hectare) does not possess the weight or volume offered by the Clos Windsbuhl. Nevertheless, it is an impressive, unevolved, tightly-knit Riesling that is still in its infancy. According to Olivier Humbrecht, it took ten months for this wine to ferment. The intriguing nose of roasted nuts, ginger, and spice hints at an exotic future. Rich and medium-bodied, with high acidity, and a spicy, earthy personality, this wine needs 1-3 years of cellaring; it should keep for 10-15+ years. |
| 2001 | d'Arche | | | 13.33 | 3 | 90 |
| 1999 | d'Yquem | Semillon | | 62.50 | 2 | |
| 1997 | Chateau La Grave a Pomerol | Merlot | | 25.00 | 2 | 86-88 |
| A sexy, open-knit wine, this 1997 reveals toffee/caramel notes intermixed with herb-infused cherry fruit, vanilla, and toasty oak. Medium-bodied, moderately intense, sweet, harmonious, jammy, and velvety-textured, this delicious offering can be consumed over the next 5-6 years. |
| 1998 | Chateau La Grave a Pomerol | Merlot | | | 2 | |
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